Makeup Exploration

 

 

Wire wefts are made to create hairpieces required for a more secure style mostly within historic or fantasy work. Circular chignon (honeycomb mesh) is most commonly used. For example, to add a bun to a model that has short hair. Rectangular wefts (Diamond mesh), are also used anywhere on the head and can be used to create styles such as the moheakon or at the nape to add length.

 

Wire wefts are different to wefts as instead of just using thread, waeving silk and wire are used instead to hold its shape. Weaving silk consists of 3ply thread that is available in 4 colours including, grey, blonde, brown and dark brown. It has also been coated in bee’s wax, which adds shine and helps keep the hair in place as its slightly tacky. When the hairpiece gets old, bee’s wax can always be re-applied. Usually 0.7 wide copper wire coated in tin is used, but any wire can be used just make sure it won’t rust or that the colour will transfer onto the hair. 

 

To create a chignon (bun) hairpiece, either it can be made from knotting in a circle direction or using wefts. If knotting, do not use a lace net because it will rip so instead use a foundation net that matches the hair colour and bulk knot. However wefts are quicker to produce and the hairpiece is on average 8.5cm.

 

 

 

 

 

First step it to make a template of the hairpiece and measure the length of weft required before setting up the weft frame. It involves 3 circles approx. 2cm apart from each other. In-between the inner and middle circle 4 petals are drawn and then petals the same size are drawn in-between the center and outer circle, the number of petals can vary.

 

Make a template using cling film, sellotape and a marker pen on a malleable block an the position and size required.

 

Take a piece of string, pinning it in place, start at the inside and work along the marker lines until the whole pattern has been covered. This will indicate who much weft is required. Also mark on the string the circumference of the outer circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next cut 2 pieces of the silk and one piece of wire of the overall length of the string plus an extra 40cms.

 

Set up the weaving frame with the silk on the top and bottom notches and the wire in-between. Use kitten toys from paper or card for the silk, but for the wire just wrap it around the pole. The wire is not attached to the silk so be careful not to pull it otherwise it will be removed from the weft.

 

First draw the two silk pieces across to the other weaving pole and tie 2 knots 1cm apart and place over the nail. Then bring the wire across to the pole and just wrap the end around the nail to keep it secure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the chosen hair, start to knot, first using a flat weft weave process beginning with a start knot and proceed until you reach the marked length of the outer circle circumference. At this point, then change to knot with the wig weft process until the acquired length is achieved and finish with an end knot. Make sure when knotting that the hair length is not lost, so pull it back through. Also make sure each knot is tight and close together and involve the same amount of hair each time (6-8 hairs).

 

Once finished, if hairs are straying then straightners can be used to make them to lie flat. Then cut the two silk pieces 8cm from the end and tie into a secure knot tightly to the end knot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cut the wire 2cms from the end of the weft and fold itself back flat against the weft to secure. Do the same at the beginning of the weft. To hide the shine and colour of the wire simply sew, using thread matching the hair colour, over and through the weft.

 

Next, make the weft to match the shape of the template. Start with the inner circle and work outwards. Each time the weft meets itself sew it together at this point. The outer circle should be of the flat weft to produce a neater appearance piece.

 

Sew a hair comb to the center and secure to the head using cross pinning.